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With the change of guard, what lies ahead for the French house? After Hrs takes stock... Fashion’s game of musical chairs continues as Hedi Slimane departs from Yves Saint Laurent and
Donatella Versace’s protege Anthony Vaccarello takes over. The ‘Yves’ in Saint Laurent is back (which was axed in Hedi’s tenure), and his entire Instagram archive has been deleted creating
ripples across the social media. Vaccarello has so far been a synonym for the unapologetic sexualised imagery — slashed-at-the-crotch leather skirts, military-influenced tailoring and wild
bathing suit dresses. Is the Belgian-Italian designer going to inject the house with his own glam rock credo or marry it with the house’s DNA? Or perhaps give it a completely new direction?
We ask some leading style arbiters... IT IS YSL’S SEXIEST PHASE Anaita Shroff Adajania, Fashion Director, Vogue India says, “As a stylist, I have actively followed Anthony Vaccarello’s work
and I’m extremely excited about his arrival at YSL. I was a fan of Hedi Slimane too, who brought a certain hipness to the label, which had the right mix of street credo and luxe appeal.
Having said that, I think Anthony is the perfect choice for the brand. I think it’s YSL’s sexiest phase. Anthony’s own line exemplifies the newness he brings to the clothes, the way he shows
leg, which is very bold and of-the-moment and the way he mixes fluidity with structure.” ANTHONY KNOWS HOW TO PUSH FASHION AGENDA Sujata Assomull, Consulting Fashion Editor, The Khaleej
Times says, “YSL has always been about pushing the fashion agenda. Be it his trapeze dresses or the more provocative Le Smoking or thigh-high boots. Saint Laurent understood the meaning of
elegance but that does not mean theirs is not a “sexy” vibe. It’s a quiet subtle sexy, not an overt sexy. Anthony understands how to push fashion agenda, yet make clothes that women want to
wear. Something which is part of the brand’s DNA. But yes, his style is far more about being overtly sexy but I am sure a designer with his experience will know how to bring his own stamp to
the house yet respect its heritage.” IT’S A CALCULATED GAMBLE Ekta Rajani, Fashion Director, Grazia India says, “Vaccarello is a leader and a visionary within that space of a very
sexualised woman. His individual personal vision will give him an edge. It’s a calculated gamble by the brand. When the brand removed ‘Yves’ from its name, it was considered a sacrilege but
it did well for the business. It remains to be seen if Vaccarello appeals not just to the consumer, who generates sales but also to the social media space.”